Saturday, 19 May 2012

Alice Springs - Day 4, 15 May 2012

Mt Conner

Too early in the morning I was collected by a bus that finished up with 20 passengers + driver and drove for about four hours arriving at Yulara, near Uluru, for lunch. Lunch was the same as on the Western Macdonnell Ranges tour – just as well it was good, a lovely fresh salad roll, fruit, and juice. There'd been the morning tea stop and the look-out stop at Mt Conner, an impressive mesa standing in solitary isolation, unlike those I saw in the US on the California Zephyr train journey which had plenty of similarly magnificent companions.

Uluru Walks Map
Then we set off for Uluru itself. Would I do the walk, wouldn't I, would I take up the offer of being driven to the half-way mark? I decided I couldn't cop out at the first opportunity so off I set, optimistically but with fingers also crossed. 

The rock is so impressive from a distance but was hard to take in up close. But there were the unexpected features – rock paintings, a grinding 'pan' used by aboriginal women, chunks that seemed to have sheered off, the tracks of waterfalls that cascade in a deluge, cracks caused by lightning strikes and, surprisingly to me, a water hole with a very faint trickle of water running down the rock into it.
Mutitjulu water hole
Rock art



Grinding 'pan'
Chunk of rock
I felt really chuffed when I made it to the end of the 10.6km base walk circuit. And what's more, I was still able to walk an extra 300m to reach the loo! 19,100 steps for the day.

In spite of an emphatic spiel from our terrific guide, one person on tour climbed to the top of the chain on the rock climb. Whether out of respect or simple fear, no one else attempted to climb Uluru. I hadn't realised that at handover to the aboriginal people, it was written into the deal that the rock remain open to climbs because the government feared tourism would fall and that it can be closed to climbing once the number of visitors climbing drops to 20%. Currently it's down to 28% apparently, and tourism has boomed in spite of the request not to climb.

Uluru sunset

After the walk it was a quick drive to the sunset viewing area. To be honest, the changing colours of sunset wasn't all that exciting. Perhaps by then I was quaking at the thought of the rapidly approaching night sleeping outdoors in a sleeping bag for the first time in my life. First there was chicken stir fry for dinner. But it couldn't be put off any longer – the lovely hot shower, shivering in the cold when the taps were turned off, then into the swag.
Chicken stir fry

Monday, 14 May 2012

Alice Springs – Day 3, 14 May 2012


This day last year I was at a wonderful wedding in Boston. Who'd have thought – and I'm sure the bride and groom didn't!! - that today they would be parents to 10 day old twins, Kiera and Jeremy. Blessings indeed.

Today started with sorting the hotel booking. I remained pretty calm. Not much point in ranting at the trainee on the desk – she was there with no back-up and an inadequate command of English. I took the hotel shuttle into town. I don't know what rank the driver held but he was unimpressed with my experience and said he'd look into it. I hadn't complained but he'd obviously seen something was wrong.

I picked up a hire car for the day but still managed 11,700+ steps. The car cost about $5 more than a ticket on the hop-on, hop-off bus and gave me much greater flexibility. I covered the grand total of 30km. I didn't refill the tank and the hire company didn't charge me for refuelling at their depot :-)

First stop was the RFDS Museum and cafe but no one was about and I didn't fancy a sausage roll for breakfast anyway. On to the Desert Park. I'd just missed the Birds of Prey show so looked forward to a leisurely breakfast in that safe. A muffin and a coffee was as breakfast-y as it got. The park itself though was terrific. It could be 'done' more quickly but the fact that I spent three hours there says something, given I'm not a huge flora and fauna fan. A real fan of either or both could well spend much longer. I've booked to go back for the night tour on Friday.





Heading back into town I was held up at the railway boom gates. How many trains go through there each week? Fewer than the take-offs and landings that close the road on Shetland I'm guessing! It was The Ghan. Would love to do that trip one day. Looking at it though my immediate reaction was how small the windows were – no scenic views as on the California Zephyr or The Canadian.




















I headed out to the Telegraph Station, the beginnings of Alice Springs. A very well preserved cluster of buildings. You know you're getting old when something you remember using is an historical exhibit. We had a Coolgardie safe before my parents got a fridge. In the rocks above the carpark there was a wallaby, or was it a small kangaroo? The difference is in the structure of the tail and how the tail is used (by kangaroos) or not (by wallabies), apparently.
Galahs
Kangaroo ... or wallaby?
Telegraph station
The old wiring
The School of the Air wasn't high on my 'things to do' list but I was going by the end of the street, so why not? I'm so glad I went there. Back when I was in primary school SOA was already a legend – though still a fairly new venture. The limited actual knowledge I had from back then wasn't too far off the mark. Although I had thought the pedal radio referred to pressing a pedal to speak or let the other person speak. Sounds a dumb thought once you know: the radio user literally had to pedal to generate the power to operate the radio. It looked a bit like those simple rotary pedals that are advertised on late-night TV instead of getting a whole exercise bike. The internet has vastly changed how things operate. But there are still paper books and the children get together four times per year. The biggest shock to me was the number of children involved: about 120, a number which remains fairly stable. I'd have thought many more than that. It's certainly a big investment in their education but 2/3 comes from donations and fund-raising. The government contributes 1/3 – each child gets the same amount per head as any other school child.

Next it was off to ANZAC Hill but no go there. It was closed for an 'event' – some bike-riding thing. Grrrr. So into town and a visit to the Catholic Church, a fine looking building, relatively new although I didn't see anything that said when it was built. That's as near to a church crawl as this visit will get.




I returned the car, had afternoon tea at a cafe as they were packing up quickly followed by tea at the local pub. Only separated by a quick nick into a gallery where I bought a small dot painting. Then back to the hotel to get organised for an early check-out and set-off on the Three Day Adventure. I'm getting quite nervous now about being up to what's involved.

Alice Springs - Day 2, 13 May 2012

After a few years it was back to a group tour today, the first of three during my stay in Alice. This was to the West MacDonnell Ranges. I really enjoyed it. And it upset a few of my expectations. The centre isn't as red as I expected; the area more hilly; the ranges not so mountainous; many more rivers than I realised, though mostly dry but not all the time; more treed; more green, though not green-green, more sage and olive.

We stopped at …

Simpson's Gap                                                                             
Simpson's Gap
Simpson's Gap





Standley Chasm (my favourite, I think)

Standley Chasm
At Standley Chasm













 
The Ochre Pits (ochre dug out of walls not pans, as I'd imagined)

Ochre Pits
Ochre Pits  
Ormiston Gorge (running close to if not equal with Standley Chasm as my favourite) … my tentative confidence in tackling the King's Canyon rim walk took a dint here. I didn't climb up to the Ghost Gum Lookout – wasn't 100% convinced I'd get there and back in the allotted time. Saw a couple of rock wallabies – leaping about like mountain goats. Fun to watch.
Ghost Gum Lookout - Ormiston Gorge

Ormiston Gorge


Ormiston Gorge
Ormiston Gorge
The Finke River at Glen Helen Gorge …. with water in it!
Finke River, Glen Helen Gorge
Finke River, Glen Helen Gorge
Ellery Big Hole (also pretty impressive) … let's face it, it was all pretty spectacular. This is a big swimming hole. The water was too cold for all but the most hardy to swim in, i.e. everyone on my tour stayed out of the water. So I wasted money on buying new bathers but did save the embarrassment of getting out in them!

Ellery Big Hole
Ellery Big Hole


Ellery Big Hole
Ellery Big Hole
Flynn's Grave plus some iconic ghost gums painted by Albert Namatjira and several lookout points for simply stunning views.
Flynn's Grave
No Swimming
The West Macs
Mt Sonder
There were 14 people on the tour and we would have been covered for medical emergencies. There was a doctor, a final year medical student – from my work!!, a physio, a nurse and another health person whose profession I didn't find out. The nurse works in acute care for most of the year and comes to Alice for a couple of months each year and works as a nurse in a different area, this year geriatrics. The rest are in Alice for a conference about aboriginal health. There was also an older retired couple, three young people from Singapore, a translator from Italy (professionally English and Russian but also speaks French, German and Polish), an English ESL teacher, and a lawyer. Not your average crowd!


12,800+ steps for the counters.

Sunday, 13 May 2012

Alice Springs - Day 1, 12 May 2012

As is my wont, close to departure date I contacted all the companies with whom I had bookings to confirm that everything was set to go. I was rather shocked when one day tour came back “Cancelled.” I wonder when I'd have found out if I hadn't contacted them.
Then I arrived to find my hotel booking had been changed – one night less and the place is completely booked. The latter problem I'm ignoring, simply won't be moving out on the wrong date. The former problem though is a cloud with silver lining.
Wide Brown Land


I arrived in Alice Springs after an uneventful flight. That's saying something since immediately behind me were sitting 18 teenage girls on a school trip. After a couple of screams on take-off, they settled down and were pretty well behaved. I also had an empty seat beside me. It's been a while!

My hotel room, internally, is fine, but otherwise is the single woman traveller's special: at the front, next to the lift at the point where every guest will wander by; at the rear, the prison courtyard, tiny to accommodate the corner everyone has to turn and no view. If you'd shown me a floor plan of the place, I'd have instantly known this is the room they'd give me. Ho hum.





















After settling in I set off exploring. It's a 20 minute walk into the town proper. I detoured via Olive Pink Botanical Gardens. The safe didn't appear to have enough choice for lunch but there was a hill there to climb, Meyers Hill. I climbed it in anticipation of the climb to King's Canyon Rim, coming up later in the week. I suspect King's Canyon will be more difficult but with a bit of puffing and panting I made this one and went on to walk quite a way – 16,500 steps for the day for the pedometer brigade - so I'm feeling OK about what's to come.
Where am I?

In Central Australia
Adelaide House - First Hospital
Today was planned as a familiarising half day following arrival so it didn't matter that quite a few places were closed. And therein is the silver lining to my cancelled tour booking. I found a replacement tour (to Palm Valley) for next Saturday, a day on which I was going to have a hire car and see some local sights. Instead I have the car on Monday when more places will be open. Winner!
Stuart Town Gaol


With the exception of a handful of landmarks, the town centre is far from historic. It could be any other shopping centre except for the setting: a vista of magnificent trees at the end of the main streets, rugged hills all about. Oh, and all the Aboriginal art souvenir shops. The weather was just about perfect so, although I was 'only' wandering in the town centre, it really was a most pleasant afternoon. The route to and from the city from my hotel was along the banks of the Todd River – where the annual boat race is cancelled if there's water in the river!
Todd River


Back to the hotel for dinner and an early night in anticipation of an early start to the West Macdonnell Ranges in the morning. Sightseeing starts in earnest!

Tuesday, 8 May 2012

On the move again ...


There was one thing I didn't anticipate when I arrived home from my US-Canada adventure … the desire, at last, to see more of Australia. I'd thought some things I'd like to do would be beyond me, as a solo traveller. As serendipity would have it, while I was away, friends did a Kimberley tour. Robyn was so enthusiastic, both about the tour and the possibility of doing it as a solo, that I investigated. In the end I settled on a two part trip, two parts basically to fit in my leave at work around other people, seeing as I had first choice of leave in 2011.
Now, I'm about to set off for eight days in Central Australia. Later, in August-September, I'll take 3½ weeks to travel through the Kimberley, starting at Alice Springs, crossing the Tanami Desert to Broome, then through the Kimberley itself to Darwin.
I've been training (a rather overblown description), so now I'm as fit as I'll ever be to tackle the Centre, starting on Saturday. I've re-read “A Town Like Alice”, not that that's got much to do with Alice at all, but it was every bit as enjoyable the second time around as it was the first. I'm feeling apprehensive – Has my 'training' been enough? Will I cope with my first-time-ever camping experience? … a whole two nights out of the eight that I'm away! Why do I seem to have so much to take? … to cover the warm days and cold, very cold nights.
If nothing else, I hope to learn by experience so I'm better prepared for the second part of this next great adventure.
So … hey ho, off we go!!!