Saturday 19 May 2012

Alice Springs - Day 4, 15 May 2012

Mt Conner

Too early in the morning I was collected by a bus that finished up with 20 passengers + driver and drove for about four hours arriving at Yulara, near Uluru, for lunch. Lunch was the same as on the Western Macdonnell Ranges tour – just as well it was good, a lovely fresh salad roll, fruit, and juice. There'd been the morning tea stop and the look-out stop at Mt Conner, an impressive mesa standing in solitary isolation, unlike those I saw in the US on the California Zephyr train journey which had plenty of similarly magnificent companions.

Uluru Walks Map
Then we set off for Uluru itself. Would I do the walk, wouldn't I, would I take up the offer of being driven to the half-way mark? I decided I couldn't cop out at the first opportunity so off I set, optimistically but with fingers also crossed. 

The rock is so impressive from a distance but was hard to take in up close. But there were the unexpected features – rock paintings, a grinding 'pan' used by aboriginal women, chunks that seemed to have sheered off, the tracks of waterfalls that cascade in a deluge, cracks caused by lightning strikes and, surprisingly to me, a water hole with a very faint trickle of water running down the rock into it.
Mutitjulu water hole
Rock art



Grinding 'pan'
Chunk of rock
I felt really chuffed when I made it to the end of the 10.6km base walk circuit. And what's more, I was still able to walk an extra 300m to reach the loo! 19,100 steps for the day.

In spite of an emphatic spiel from our terrific guide, one person on tour climbed to the top of the chain on the rock climb. Whether out of respect or simple fear, no one else attempted to climb Uluru. I hadn't realised that at handover to the aboriginal people, it was written into the deal that the rock remain open to climbs because the government feared tourism would fall and that it can be closed to climbing once the number of visitors climbing drops to 20%. Currently it's down to 28% apparently, and tourism has boomed in spite of the request not to climb.

Uluru sunset

After the walk it was a quick drive to the sunset viewing area. To be honest, the changing colours of sunset wasn't all that exciting. Perhaps by then I was quaking at the thought of the rapidly approaching night sleeping outdoors in a sleeping bag for the first time in my life. First there was chicken stir fry for dinner. But it couldn't be put off any longer – the lovely hot shower, shivering in the cold when the taps were turned off, then into the swag.
Chicken stir fry