Showing posts with label Sailing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sailing. Show all posts

Tuesday, 2 August 2016

On the water 2

First posted on March 10, 2013

Cruising to MONA took us north for 30 minutes, under the Tasman Bridge, past working docks, the terraced seating at the finish line of the Hobart regatta and Government House.
                      Regatta finishing line. 
      Cenotaph and Mt Wellington in the background.
                          Government House
But that was quickly followed by the industrial areas of Hobart – a fuel storage depot (no refineries here), zinc smelter, catamaran builders.
                             Zinc smelter
  Catamaran building yard, with smelter in background
Interesting, but this isn’t the part of town where I’d want to be living and hardly an attractive view from the homes on the opposite bank of the river. This industrial/working class part of Hobart is where MONA owner David Walsh grew up and came back to in order to establish his museum/gallery. What he’s done for Tasmanian tourism is a one-man miracle. MONA itself looks wonderful as you approach it by water. You can drive there, of course, but I can’t imagine that approach being so arresting a sight.
Approaching MONA
Leaving MONA - close to sunset
The chug boat –  what a contrast! It stayed closer to the shoreline and because it was going slowly I got a longer, better view of things I, relatively speaking, whizzed by earlier.
                                           Tasman Bridge
 with the remains of the last pylon of its ill-fated predecessor in the foreground
                       Under the Tasman Bridge
The pleasure of the trip was sitting outside at the front of the boat chatting to a young marine scientist who’d been at a series of CSIRO meetings in Hobart. She was from Colorado. When I said I’d sort-of visited there and described my train trip through the canyons of the Colorado River while travelling on the Californian Zephyr she said to me: “I live in one of those canyons.” Wow!!
            Antarctic supply ship “Aurora Australis”
                                 (R) The “chug” boat 
 (L) “SSS Brigitte Bardot”, a small boat from the Sea Shepherd fleet

On the water 1

First posted on March 10, 2013
I didn’t have to go out of my way to spend a bit of time on the water in Hobart. There was the trip to Peppermint Bay, what is basically a commuter run up to MONA and back, and an hour and a half (with the Sara Lee cheesecake morning tea!) slowly chugging not too far from Sullivans Cove: a loop to Sandy Bay, around and under the bridge, and back again. The last was in lieu of my planned little jaunt up to the top of Mt Wellington. When I woke up on the Monday morning the mountain (more of a hill!) had disappeared. It finally showed itself about midday when the cloud/fog lifted but by then it was too late if I was going to make it to the airport on time.
Heading south to Peppermint Bay was scenic without being spectacular.
Hobart, south of Wrest Point casino
A shot tower, of all things
For the cruise we settled on the mid-price tickets but the cheapest would have been fine. And, if like me you like being outside on deck, the cheapest seats don’t matter at all. Whatever price seats, everyone had the same meal. There was a commentary most of the way there. We stopped at a few spots for various explanations. One was the composition of the rock. Can’t remember it all, of course, but in places there is a base of Jurassic dolerite, supposedly occurring in only a few places but Google seems to think a few more than a few. This base was a light charcoal grey and the rocks above were your usual dusty fawn/grey shades coloured with various lichens – not the gorgeous iron red of the Kimberley.
Not as colourful as the Kimberley
At one point a camera was dropped into the water with video appearing on screens in the cabin. There were quite a few fish – of the ‘ordinary’ variety that untalented school children like me draw. Then we chanced upon quite a few very different fish whose name I can’t remember, but looking quite tropical in distinctly untropical waters! A rare sighting, we were told.
Fancy fish
The good life
As already noted, lunch at Peppermint Bay was superb. Afterwards we had about 20 minutes to “explore the town” - of note, the craft chop and the old fashioned lolly shop. No! The supposedly locally made craft had a horrible (and I mean that literally) resemblance to mass-produced Chinese junk. And the lolly shop – the local general store with some dusty jars of old-fashioned lollies were in the window. The short time would have been much better spent relaxing on the restaurant terrace, having an extra coffee or drink, soaking up the view, or strolling in the grounds and stumbling upon sculptures.
Peppermint Bay restaurant, including oh-so-pleasant terrace
                      Sleeping Buddha
                   Shell carved from tree stump

The return trip included a quick stop at Bruny Island to pick up some people who had been sightseeing there and then past some salmon farms.
Farming salmon
The trip was done at higher speed and into the wind. I loved it but did go down from the top deck, where I was alone – I thought I could well be blown overboard and no one would know. Someone had left a glass there on a ledge. As I went to pick it up the wind got it and smashed it to the ground. I’m sure the steward I reported it to thought I dropped it! So the bulk of the journey was spent standing at the front of the boat with a couple of other hardy women. Occasionally someone would come and join us but they soon disappeared again – until they all came out for photo ops once we reached the shelter of Sullivans Cove.
Tasman Bridge

Sunday, 23 September 2012

I am sailing

From the outset, the items on the itinerary that held immediate attraction for me were the cruises, five of them: Geikie Gorge, Ord River, Katherine River Gorge, Yellow Water Billabong, and the incorrectly named East Alligator River ... there are no alligators in Australia, only crocodiles, something to do with the difference in jaw shape apparently. In Oz there are freshwater and saltwater crocodiles, again, the most obvious difference, should you hang around to find out, is jaw shape. The freshwater has a much longer, more slender jaw and won't eat anything that's too big, nor will it bother you if you don't bother it, while the saltie has a shorter, wider jaw and will have a go at anything.

Whilst I have no inclination to go on a cruise liner, being right on the water, seeing the scenery from that vantage point, I absolutely love. Geikie brought the first crocodile sighting (see earlier post). The Ord, up to the dam wall, was particularly interesting at the point where we could see the change from salt to freshwater, from tidal water to river proper and the river pushed the idling boat back towards the sea, rather quickly. The dam wall is an amazing feat: an earth wall holding back an incredible amount of water, irrigating land that would be all but bone dry otherwise. Katherine River Gorge was the most beautiful, no question. The (rather large!) billabong was the place for wildlife: more crocs, lots of birds and, on the flora side, some stunning lilies. And the place where my camera battery ran out so I used my phone, guessing where I was pointing because you can't see the screen in sunlight.

Finally, the East Alligator River. Here we had the privilege of Aboriginal guides, three lovely young men in my boat and an older man in the other boat. They were all from Arnhem Land and honoured us at the far point of the cruise by taking us off our boats into Arnhem Land (we were on the other side of the river in Kakadu otherwise) where they showed and demonstrated various hunting tools ... and punishment spears! Iron spear tips have been used in Northern Australia since the time of the Dutch, 400+ years ago, well before English settlement. Their explanations about how they used plants, fished, lived was real because it was their experience, not mere book knowledge. Also, here we got to see some rather large saltwater crocs. All lazing in the river or on the river banks, not looking threatening at all. At the end as the boat docked, a baby croc, about 60cm long, swam by quickly. It looked very cute!! But not to be trusted with your fingers!

The contrasts are what get you. It is so dry. Yet, when there is water, there is so much of it. And both are stunningly beautiful in their own ways, and treacherous if you're on the wrong side of drought or flood.

Ord River
More Ord River photos here.


                           

Katherine River
More Katherine River Gorge photos here.
















Yellow Water Billabong
More Yellow Water Billabong photos here.









East Alligator River
More east Alligator river photos here.