Showing posts with label Rawnsley Park Station. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rawnsley Park Station. Show all posts

Sunday, 9 October 2016

Rawnsley Park Station to Berri - 28 Sept. 2016

Time to leave the Flinders Ranges  :-(
I was a bit of a novice at staying in a caravan park but the staff were lovely and helpful. The cabin at Rawnsley Park Station was more than adequate. RPS has other accommodation too - for tents and caravans, cabins with en suite bathrooms, and 'eco villas' designed for those with cash to splash. Having 'got the lie of the land' and seen a little bit of the accommodation at Wilpena pound, if I go again (I'd like to!) I'd choose RPS over Wilpena every time.
Last view of Rawnsley Bluff
I didn't realise until later in the day that, while showering in the morning, having left me alone until then, mozzies had made a meal of me. Itchy!! I left in fine weather, ahead of forecast rains. I hoped to escape that.
Heading to the Rawnsley Park gate and the road to Hawker
First stop Hawker, for petrol. There I spotted a quilt and art exhibition – naturally I couldn't resist. There were also lots of fabulous home baked goodies, jams, chutnies, etc. I'd have stocked up if the provisions hadn't had to survive three days in the car before getting home. Also knitting, sewing and some beautiful dyed silk scarves.
As I left, the first spots of rain. A portent of things to come.
Hawker Uniting Church
I'd set myself more driving than I should have so cut out some small towns that had been on the itinerary and cut across country instead. Given that the rain increased, that was a wise move. The drive became unpleasant when, after turning off to Orroroo, I got caught in the middle of a car rally – the Mystery Box Rally, raising money for the Cancer Council I learned later from google. A good cause and they obviously raise a lot of money but I was singularly unimpressed. I got caught in the middle because I pulled over for the lead car. It had a flashing light so I thought an emergency or working vehicle of some sort. Nothing of the kind. The cars that then passed me were emblazoned with different slogans, all of which you would associate with yobs or bogans. And some of them certainly drove like that.

I stopped at Orroroo because there was another Flinders art exhibition there. When I couldn't immediately see it, I asked at the local shire office. In spite of the advertised dates, the Orroroo exhibition had finished a week earlier. Not amused. I'd thought of having coffee there but with the rally drivers having the same plan I hot-footed it out of town to escape them.
On to Peterborough where, with no sign of the advertised Flinders art exhibition I kept driving as a section of the rally drivers had beaten me there for coffee.

Escape at last! It had also become very windy. The door was nearly ripped off the car and I was all but blown away when I stopped at Hallett for a leg-stretch and a couple of muesli bars to sustain me.
Hallett Library - doesn't look like it opens much, if at all
Then on to Burra for a late lunch. As I arrived the thunder and lightning started. When I went into a cafe it seemed very dark – only moments before their power had gone out. Someone was on the phone organising an electrician for the next day. That wasn't going to help, as it later became known - the whole of South Australia had lost power.
Looking ominous at Burra
After lunch the rain had stopped and pretty much all the way to Berri I was following a rainbow. It was rather lovely and eased the tension of the stressful section of the day's drive. Little did I know what was ahead.
Chasing the rainbow
As I arrived at my Berri Hotel the rain started again and when I went inside, more darkness. The stay here became a cross between farce and the surreal. I had to call reception to let me out of the room I was given. A broken door handle and dodgy lock had trapped me inside. I was given a new room. It hadn't been cleaned since the previous occupants had departed. A third room. Seemed OK. I went to sit and read in a lounge area with a gorgeous view over the Murray. 
Paddle steamer and houseboats on the Murray at Berri
When it became too dark to read I went to have dinner. A choice of Caesar or Greek salads since there were no cooking facilities. Eaten by candlelight in an atrium where I could see the lightning flashes above me.
Dinner by candlelight!
On finishing the salad I ordered a drink before dashing upstairs to get my tablets. The dash took a while. The ceiling was leaking. Moved to my fourth room!!!! This was an upgrade which meant I had a full ensuite bathroom. The three previous rooms were “budget” class and had a shower and hand basin but the loos were down the hall. Mind you, the fourth room was Fawlty Towers too – the bar fridge was faulty and had been pulled out of its alcove so you had to walk around it. This room also had the same fabulous views over the Murray although a bit dark to see by now.

When I finally got downstairs they gave me my drink for free. I settled down to write a blog draft when I was ushered upstairs. “For health and safety” they were clearing the ground floor! Thus, for the first time since goodness knows when, recent illnesses excepted, I was in bed before 8pm! Surprisingly, I fell asleep quite quickly and awoke about 1.30am to find power restored. Quickly plugged in my phone to recharge! Then I fell asleep again, not waking until about 7.30am. How about that!


Thursday, 6 October 2016

Flinders Gorges - 25 Sept. 2016

From the beginning I'd planned to do a half-day 4WD tour offered (for a price!) by Rawnsley Park Station. I wasn't fussed which day I did it but as it happened, doing it on my first morning helped orient me for the rest of my stay. I wanted to see the Brachina and Bunyeroo gorges that I couldn't get to in my little car.


Spot the rippled rock - like sand in the shallows at the beach
 - as it indeed was at the time it solidified
There has been an unusual amount of rain in the area – creeks which are normally dry were flowing briskly. Fun to be driving along them, i.e. in the water! - just glad it wasn't me doing the driving.


I was happy with the wildflowers that I saw – and lots of Salvation Jane or, more indicitavely, Pattersons curse … it does look pretty though! However, the tour guide said better is to come. The rain has kept temperatures down a bit and many buds are still waiting to burst open.

Bush tucker was on offer! I tried and very much liked the leaves of Afghan hops, a plant introduced from Afghanistan by the early cameleers. The plant made good padding for camel saddles apparently. There was a tang to the leaves but it wasn't bitter, more sweet if anything. It would make an excellent addition to a mixed or green salad.
The other was a quandong, a so-called native peach. A lovely looking fruit, a beautiful red. But very little fruit – it was more stone. The fruit itself was dry with not much flavour. You'd eat it if you were hungry but otherwise not bother – in my opinion!

I was thrilled to see some emus on the drive to Parachilna. Now they became a commonplace! Kangaroos too although not quite so numerous. We saw yellow footed wallabies – rock wallabies, basically. But why yellow-footed when their tails are also yellow, very long, and much more easily seen? There are more birds than I can possibly remember but lots of rosellas if the artwork on the tomato sauce bottle is accurate! And few birds stay put for a photo :-(
Spot the wallaby!
The formation of the ranges was explained – layer upon layer of different types of rock going back to when the area was under water completely, each layer representing events millions of years apart. These events also gave rise to different soil types which explained the quite varied vegetation in a relatively small area – from heavily treed to grassy hills to plains.
The Brachina gorge is also referred to as the Geological trail and, because of its long history, gives rise to a steady stream of PhDs.

On the way back to RPS we detoured to Stokes Hill Lookout, a hilltop seemingly in the middle of nowhere – but it was a wi-fi hotspot!

In the afternoon I did my first walk – to Arkaroo Rock, a rock with a wave-like inner formation that was covered in (not particularly good) Aboriginal paintings (and the sun at exactly the wrong angle for photos!).
Arkaroo Rock ...
... and paintings
I last walked a rocky path like this when I was in the Kimberley back in 2012! I puffed and panted a bit but I made it! 
The path went from this ... 
... to this!
With occasional views like this - Rawnsley Bluff
The path was partially looped and on the return walk I was rewarded with the sound, if not often the sight, of a babbling creek.

Back at RPS, before getting to my cabin, I turned off to Station Hill Lookout, a small hill that gives 360 deg views of just part of the 30,000 acres that make up RPS. The station runs 3,000 head of sheep but tourism has become the bigger earner of the two.
Looking in this direction, Rawnsley Park Station extends
to the top ridge of the Chace Range in the distance
An excellent, tiring day. The bed is comfortable but the nights get cold. I had to turn on the heating during the night!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

The thing about wildflowers in the outback ... they're tiny!

My foot, for comparison


My hand - not for comparison but to hold the flowers up :-)

Native hops
Not a dandelion but a type of yam


Monday, 3 October 2016

Port Augusta to Rawnsley Park Station - 24 Sept. 2016

This was planned as an easy driving day, allowing time in particular to visit the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden. I had wonderful memories of such a garden in Central Australia, the Alice Springs Desert Park, where I thought I'd pop in for half an hour which turned into half a day. Sadly, the Port Augusta version wasn't a patch on the one in Alice, to the point where it didn't keep me waiting until the 10am cafe opening time for breakfast.
Red flowers?
However, I did enjoy a short section of a cliff walk with stunning views of the head of Spencer Gulf where Matthew Flinders had landed. This was the red earth I was hoping to see on this trip.
Red cliffs and mangroves
So on to my next stop, the water tower lookout. A lot of stairs, two days in a row! Good but unexciting views of the city.
From water tower to lookout tower
Breakfast was a takeaway affair from a bakery in the main shopping centre. Fine, for what it was but I'd planned on cafe-style for the day. I was sitting on a street bench looking at the Court House, one of the cities many fine old buildings ... granted, looking across a car park!
Court House
Northern Gateway - former brewery now incorporated into a shopping centre
Onwards to Quorn. It wasn't until after I booked all my accommodation that I looked at the Pichi Richi railway timetable. Perhaps a blessing in disguise that it wasn't going to fit into my timetable. I passed it en route to Quorn – it did look fabulous! 
Pichi Richi steam train - a hit with tourists with more time (or different priorities!) than me
But on reaching Quorn I discovered that the train was expected to be 45+ minutes behind schedule. Not bad for a supposedly 1¾ hour journey!
Street frontage of Quorn's rather grand railway station
Quorn station, track-side
I had thoughts of driving to Rawnsley Park Station via Parachilna and Blinman. But a check on the roads at the Port August tourist info centre revealed that wasn't going to happen. Maps showed inconsistent road surfaces. Local knowledge confirmed the Parachilna > Blinman road is unsealed. Not good in my little car and doubly so after bucketing rain giving rise to mud at best and floods at worst.
Nevertheless, I wanted to see the Prairie Hotel at Parachilna so drove there for a late soup lunch and a lemon squash. A long way to go for a drink! Especially as there was no other way to get to Rawnsley except by retracing the whole of that drive back to Hawker.
En route to the pub I got a huge thrill - I saw four emus grazing on the old Ghan railway tracks. A wonderful sight!
Prairie Hotel, Parachilna
The Outback Highway back to Hawker - no emus this time
Finally – Rawnsley Park and my caravan park cabin! Lovely for one (i.e. me), would work for two. The bunkroom sleeps four – child size … and would be a nightmare!
It was two rolls with spinach and cheese filling for tea. It's harder than I expected to keep up my Vitamin K quota.


View from the cabin