After a feast of gorges, it was off to the Mitchell Plateau and Mitchell Falls. Dispensing with the bad stuff – this was the one and only place where the toilets made me gag and, unfortunately, we were there for two nights. It shouldn't have been that way – they were long-drops and there was a resident ranger who should have kept them up to scratch. OK. Done with the bad.
The Kalumburu Road wasn't too bad at all – about as bad as I'd expected the Gibb River Road to be but wasn't. It was slow going and we bounced along, but it was OK. I was astonished at the huge number of Livistona palms growing in the area. These were the palms I'd been so anxious to see at Palm Valley. Granted, the Palm Valley specimens were more lush, but they were growing in and around the Finke River so got more water.
That night we were half expecting our guide for the next day to arrive and give us a preview talk, but he didn't show. Not a wasted evening though, sitting around one of our better camp-fires.
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| Lots of Livistona palms More photos here |
Hiking to the Falls
Another expectation bites the dust. Because a helicopter flight back after the walk “down to the falls” was included in the price of the tour, I assumed it was going to be pretty steep going down. Not so. Rough, certainly, but that made it slow going more than anything, although coming up on even the slight rise from “the bottom” would probably have tested me and one or two others I suspect.
We made lots of stops along the way as Brownie, our guide, explained all about aboriginal lore, plants, animals, rock art ... and we looked at the scenery! First stop was Little Mertens Falls, no indicator of what was to come but giving another great cross-country view. Next was our first major rock art stop. It's amazing stuff. Aboriginals are allowed to refresh the artwork, according to their needs. Remember, these are the equivalent of Western arts' stained glass, paintings, mosaics, murals, etc for passing on stories in a pre-literate age. Not all rock art has been refreshed, so much so that for some, the colour is there but nothing of the 'paint' that can be carbon dated.
Next it was scrambling behind a small waterfall (not exactly reminiscent of being behind Niagara!) then across boulders that were a foretaste of the climb to Emma Gorge. Rest stops, be it amongst the boulders or along the rocky path, always involved a search, usually unsuccessful!, for a comfortable spot to sit. (Needing to search for safe and/or secure footstep places goes without saying!) Shade was often at a premium too. It was hot!
Then we got to Mertens Falls, with a sizeable gorge, some beautiful pools, and, joy, a Mertens' Water Monitor, a gorgeous fellow (or female?) who eyed us off but seemed unconcerned at our presence. Water was flowing over and down into the gorge - just! - but it's impossible, really, to imagine what the falls must be like in the Wet. More rough and rocky 'paths' to negotiate, and we were there!
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| Tiny wildflowers on the way to Mitchell Falls More photos of the hike here |
Mitchell Falls
First stop before the falls proper was a swim in the Mitchell Falls pool. This is where I finished up jumping in fully clothed after thinking I'd just paddle my feet. The memory of the fun and deliciousness of it hasn't dimmed.
After swimming we got our first view of the falls. Pressing on, walking across rock, it was very easy to see in the rock markings, indentations, etc, that it was very like rock-pools at the coast. Hard to believe it was under water millions of years ago. Finally we came to where we were looking directly across to the falls – 35 storeys high was the figure quoted to us. Amazing sight. Again, hard to imagine the falls in the wet. I was pleased to see the rainbow at the bottom of the falls. It's one that is referred to as a Rainbow Serpent in Aboriginal mythology.
There were some spectacular views from the helicopter – I was in the front seat again – as we flew twice around and over the falls. In this situation my shortcomings as a photographer become all too evident. But even bad photos that I have taken make the memories come alive.
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| Mitchell Falls More photos here |
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| Mitchell Falls in the wet Photo credit |
The perfect end to the day was a swim in the swimming hole by our camp. It was the most enclosed swimming spot we were in with the 'things' in the water a bit harder to ignore ... bugs, little fish, slimy rocks .... but it was nevertheless probably the longest time I was in the water apart from the pool at Cable Beach resort. And we had a bird guarding our towels and sandals.
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| Swimming hole near Mitchell Plateau camp ground |
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| "Guard Bird" at the swimming hole |
