I am sailing

From the outset, the items on the itinerary that held immediate attraction for me were the cruises, five of them: Geikie Gorge, Ord River, Katherine River Gorge, Yellow Water Billabong, and the incorrectly named East Alligator River ... there are no alligators in Australia, only crocodiles, something to do with the difference in jaw shape apparently. In Oz there are freshwater and saltwater crocodiles, again, the most obvious difference, should you hang around to find out, is jaw shape. The freshwater has a much longer, more slender jaw and won't eat anything that's too big, nor will it bother you if you don't bother it, while the saltie has a shorter, wider jaw and will have a go at anything.

Whilst I have no inclination to go on a cruise liner, being right on the water, seeing the scenery from that vantage point, I absolutely love. Geikie brought the first crocodile sighting (see earlier post). The Ord, up to the dam wall, was particularly interesting at the point where we could see the change from salt to freshwater, from tidal water to river proper and the river pushed the idling boat back towards the sea, rather quickly. The dam wall is an amazing feat: an earth wall holding back an incredible amount of water, irrigating land that would be all but bone dry otherwise. Katherine River Gorge was the most beautiful, no question. The (rather large!) billabong was the place for wildlife: more crocs, lots of birds and, on the flora side, some stunning lilies. And the place where my camera battery ran out so I used my phone, guessing where I was pointing because you can't see the screen in sunlight.

Finally, the East Alligator River. Here we had the privilege of Aboriginal guides, three lovely young men in my boat and an older man in the other boat. They were all from Arnhem Land and honoured us at the far point of the cruise by taking us off our boats into Arnhem Land (we were on the other side of the river in Kakadu otherwise) where they showed and demonstrated various hunting tools ... and punishment spears! Iron spear tips have been used in Northern Australia since the time of the Dutch, 400+ years ago, well before English settlement. Their explanations about how they used plants, fished, lived was real because it was their experience, not mere book knowledge. Also, here we got to see some rather large saltwater crocs. All lazing in the river or on the river banks, not looking threatening at all. At the end as the boat docked, a baby croc, about 60cm long, swam by quickly. It looked very cute!! But not to be trusted with your fingers!

The contrasts are what get you. It is so dry. Yet, when there is water, there is so much of it. And both are stunningly beautiful in their own ways, and treacherous if you're on the wrong side of drought or flood.

Ord River
More Ord River photos here.

                           

Katherine River
More Katherine River Gorge photos here.

Yellow Water Billabong
More Yellow Water Billabong photos here.

East Alligator River
More east Alligator river photos here.