The tourist in Adelaide

Posted on March 1, 2014

It must be at least 15 years since I was in Adelaide, more than I can remember anyway. There are two things I’ve always liked about Adelaide. Firstly, the (relatively) low-rise office buildings, definitely no skyscrapers. Secondly, the (sand- or lime- ?) stone houses that I’d love to come home to each day. The beautiful stone public buildings are often more flinty. Those things haven’t changed. Adelaide is so lucky not to have Melbourne’s destructive “developers”, and politicians who are easily convinced it’s a good idea to destroy my city’s heritage.

North Terrace at East Terrace intersection, opposite the Botanic Garden

North Terrace, opposite the State Library

My tourist trekking began at Rundle Mall. I was underwhelmed, probably reflecting my lack of interest in and skill at shopping. Except at the Haigh’s factory where I bought more chocolate than was seemly after a short but interesting tour   No wonder Haigh’s chocolates aren’t cheap, there’s a heck of a lot that is done manually that I’d have expected to be done by machine.

My favourite visit was to the Art Gallery of South Australia. They were between special exhibitions but preparations were underway for their next, including an “artwork” in progress on the forecourt.

"Art" in progress!!

There is a small William Morris room, what’s not to enjoy?
I loved a Madonna and Child and an early Australian work by Hugh Ramsay.

Madonna and Child

The Four Seasons

But my favourite was in the foyer, couldn’t be missed as you entered the building – a series of icons by Brisbane artist Leonard Brown whose works are both sublime and “you’ve got to be joking”.

ICONOSTEASIS DEISIS TIER [‘CHRIST ENTHRONED’ WITH ‘THOSE WHO INTERCEDE’ 

               AND ‘MOTHER OF GOD OF THE SIGN’] by Leonard Brown (2007–09)

                                            …. plus part of one of his “other” works. 

At the Drill Hall by the parade ground behind Government House, I stumbled upon theHelpmann Academy 2014 graduate exhibition. It was mostly the usual “roll your eyes” works by young artists …. and one beautiful grouping of small works that I’d love to have on my own wall at home.

This won a $2000 acquistion prize - really!

I love this

The whole grouping

I went to the Migration Museum which was surprisingly honest and didn’t try to hide some of the more shameful aspects of Australia’s record. However, I found the small display about the building’s history as a home for poor and/or unwed mothers particularly interesting. Another surprise here too – they didn’t routinely take babies from their mothers.

I’m not such a museum buff but I did pop into the South Australian Museum where I bumped into and shared afternoon tea with a member of the library tour group. I went on to see the Aboriginal section where some of the exhibits chimed with things learned on my visits to Central Australia and the Kimberley in 2012.

Junction point of two wings of the Adelaide Museum

I paid a visit to the Central Market, reputedly one of the oldest/largest undercover markets in the Australia/southern hemisphere/the world – something like that! I’m sure Vic Market would challenge that! I really restrained myself and only bought a bagel to eat. I wasn’t so restrained when I went to the Sunday night market on North Terrace. I love roti so tried roti with banana – OK but plain roti is so much better. And I indulged in a treat that I only see occasionally – churros. Yummmmm!!

Central Market

As well as regular rides on the Glenelg tram in and out of town, I had a ride on the free city circular bus and Popeye, the Torrens River tourist boat. I did the North Adelaide part of the free bus ride – there’s a part of Adelaide I couldn’t afford to live! Lots of those beautiful old stone houses that I love! I didn’t do the full Popeye trip, just from the zoo to the city …. because the boat broke down! So, short but sweet.

Eating bamboo

Treat demolished

Tree hugger!